Panache Privee

Maastricht’s
Marvelous Art Fair

Unrivaled in variety and quality, TEFAF dazzles with everything
from vintage Cartier to priceless Rembrandts.
By BECCA HENSLEY

The Antiques and Works of Art section of TEFAF 2004.

The Coronation of the Virgin, late 17th century; coral, enamel and gilt copper.

T riptych with Pietà, late 15th century.

Georges Seurat, En Marche, circa 1882, Conté crayon on paper.

Auguste Rodin, Polyphemus, bronze.

Nicolas de Largillierre, Presumed Portrait of the Comtesse de Noirmont as Diana, oil on canvas.

Mummy mask, Egypte, Roman period, 1st to 3rd century AD.

Pablo Picasso, Sueño y Mentira de Franco, 1937.

N ecklace with matching earrings.

Inlaid tabletop with marble and lapis lazuli, 1684.

Jacob Jordaens, A Portrait of the Artist’s Daughter Elizabeth, oil on canvas.

Gaspar Van Wittel (known as Vanvitelli), View of Ronciglione, oil on canvas.

The Hume sofas, Robert Adam, 1780.

André Masson, Portrait de Rose Masson, circa 1944, oil on canvas.

Rembrandt, Man Wearing a Gorget and a Plumed Hat, oil on cradled panel.

Rachel Ruysch, Flowers in a Glass Vase, 1704, oil on canvas.
Becca Hensley is an award-winning travel writer, poet and columnist. Her work appears regularly in Austin Monthly, Healing Lifestyles, Brilliant, The Good Life and The Austin American Statesman.

Art aficionados the world over feel their pulses quicken each March when The European Fine Arts Fair (TEFAF) — the most important and prestigious gathering of the world’s most notable galleries — takes place in the charming, historical town of Maastricht in southern Holland.

TEFAF attracts 75,000 collectors, curators and art lovers from more than 50 countries. Less a fair than a spectacle, TEFAF dazzles with everything from vintage Cartier to priceless Rembrandts. Like some great debutante party for more than 25,000 museum-quality master works and the people who admire them, TEFAF celebrates the sublime state of the beaux arts.

“Imagine the sheer opulence, the best to be offered in the world, from old master paintings to illuminated manuscripts to Egyptian relics, all in one setting,” says Peter Sutton, executive director of the Bruce Museum, Greenwich CT, and TEFAF board member.

“It’s almost unbelievable what one finds,” says Erin Fitzpatrick of Salander-O’Reilly Galleries in New York — “fragments of the Dead Sea scrolls, a maharajah’s necklace, a lost Bernini terra-cotta.”

“It’s the unrivaled depth of variety and quality that sets TEFAF apart,” says David Tunick of David Tunick, Inc., in New York. “There’s an aura about it, a prestige, a viable pulse that beats from beginning to end.” Rob Noortman, a well-known dealer of old master paintings from Maastricht, agrees: “If you come for a Picasso, you’ll find twenty. If you’re looking for a Dufy, you may have to choose among 50.” The advantage is in the opportunity to compare quality and price. Roaming the stalls are curators, art historians and experts. “There’s always someone nearby to offer an opinion,” Noortman notes.

Once a fair that had focused primarily on Dutch and Flemish masterworks, TEFAF today defines diversity. Daphne Alazraki of Daphne Alazraki, New York, notes how the fair has evolved over the years. “It’s much more varied these days, especially in terms of paintings,” she says. Indeed, TEFAF offers supreme examples of everything from Bruegel to Bacon, from rugs to Asiatic art.

Presentations by the galleries themselves reinforce TEFAF’s magical mood. Besides displaying their exquisite collections, they manage to transport their shops’ essential personalities to the fair. Each gallery booth brims with distinction — a gold-leafed column here, an antique desk there. Dividers become faux walls bearing stucco, fabric, stenciling — whatever it takes to bring a bit of Paris, Rome or New York to the fair. Some offer sherry or chocolate, but what keeps 75,000 fairgoers coming back year after year is the absolute divinity of the artwork. “Truly, this fair is the ultimate in sophistication — it’s gorgeous,” says Michel Witmer, TEFAF board member and prominent art historian. Most of all, Witmer admires how the fair is set up like a museum. “It’s educational,” he says, “both for those who know nothing and those who know it all.”

Characterized by a rigorous and thorough vetting process that exceeds the standards set by other fairs, TEFAF’s policies ensure that purchases here can be made with absolute confidence. Two days before the fair opens, experts such as Sutton and Frank Robinson, director of the Herbert F. Johnson Museum of Art at Cornell University in New York, scrutinize the works, utilizing 19 vetting committees comprised of 130 international art historians, curators and professors who examine and verify each object to ensure its authenticity, quality and condition. Moreover, TEFAF checks that no works have been confiscated in accordance with ALR (The Art Loss Register), an organization concerned with verifying the provenance of art, particularly in terms of theft.

According to Johnny Van Haeften of London’s Johnny Van Haeften Ltd., purveyors of fine 17th-century Dutch and Flemish old master paintings, “There is such a feeling of excitement and discovery on opening night, that there’s always a mad scramble to get through the door.” Indeed, it is the vernissage that reminds us why TEFAF is the art world’s most divine (ten-day-long) soiree. Galleries from Amsterdam to San Francisco invite their best clients to toast the first hours of TEFAF at a festive premiere. Tunick calls those who flock to tiny Maastricht by private plane, train, limousine and car “the jet set of collectors.”

The scene resembles a gala affair. Designer-clad collectors, art experts and museum folk nibble canapés and sip cocktails as they explore beautifully conceived stalls of precious artwork. Cigar smoke rings and snippets of multilingual conversation fill the air. European royalty, political figures, popular designers, avid collectors and artists (think Prince Henrik of Denmark, Camilla Parker Bowles, Malcolm Forbes, Jr., Lily Safra and the Dutch royal family) stroll the gathering, seeking that perfect delftware platter or Pieter van Roestraten trompe l’oeil.

Perhaps that’s why so many museums send their representatives to the event. During the beginning days of the fair, directors and curators examine the stalls for new acquisitions. Curators often reserve pieces early in the show. The Los Angeles County Museum of Art always comes home with something divine. Says Curator J. Patrice Marandel, “We have bought many fine works for our collection at TEFAF, including Severin Kröyer’s View of Copenhagen Under the Snow from J.F. Heim in Paris.” Within the first days of TEFAF 2004, the U.K.’s Compton Verney museum bought a chalkstone Pietà, and the Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas of Madrid acquired a 16th-century Spanish silver-gilt-and-enamel chalice. From the Prado to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, it’s understood that something lost might be found, something undiscovered, uncovered. A Bernini sculpture, bought at TEFAF for the Kimbell Museum in Fort Worth, had been in a private collection for so long, its origins had been lost. Unearthed and offered two years ago by Salander-O’Reilly Galleries, it is considered one of the most important Bernini terra-cottas in existence.

Professional art buyers and serious collectors relish the exclusive inventory. Witmer’s favorite acquisitions are a 17th-century Dutch painting from the Orleans Collection and a bible made by the monks in Oxford in the 12th century. Even artists are inspired by the wealth of art on display. Five years ago, well-known British modern-art sculptor Barry Flanagan became entranced by two medieval, wooden Venetian sculptures and urged Leslie Waddington of Waddington Galleries, London, to buy them. Flanagan recycled them into a sort of ancient-meets-modern art piece. The new sculpture, exhibited at TEFAF last year, serves as a metaphor for the range of art presented at the fair.

But the allure of competing with museum and other professional buyers isn’t the only thing attracting discriminating collectors to TEFAF. Noortman’s clients and colleagues attend cocktail events and dinner extravaganzas at his castle just outside of Maastricht. Belgian interior designer and antiques dealer Axel Vervoordt organizes parties and concerts in both his castle and in De Fabriek, a splendidly restored former factory not far from the fair, and Van Haeften celebrates TEFAF’s opening week with an extravagant dinner at Château Neercanne.

Besides the invitation-only events, which are hosted by the galleries, a profusion of lectures, concerts and professional group meetings take place. This year, a unique jubilee concert honors Andrea Amati, the famed teacher of Stradivarius, on his 500th birthday. The concert, planned for March 6th, will use original Amati instruments. Throughout TEFAF, three extremely rare Amati violins, on loan from the Museum of Cremona, will be on display to delight music and antiques lovers.

Ultimately, of course, what makes TEFAF so splendid is the unveiling of the art. Van Haeften, who will bring, among other works, a portrait by Jacob Jordaens of his daughter Elizabeth to TEFAF 2005, says that many galleries hold back their best pieces for the fair. “There’s great fanfare in the unveiling,” he explains. But while most take great measures to keep their inventory a secret until March, others, such as New York’s Royal-Athena Galleries, print catalogs months in advance. Dr. Jerome Eisenberg, gallery director, says only the stand-out pieces go to TEFAF. “Our gallery brings nothing under $2,500,” he says, “though most antiquities begin at around $10,000.” Some of the items Royal-Athena Galleries plan to show at TEFAF include a marble torso of Aphrodite, Greek and Roman helmets from the 4th century BC (through the 4th century AD) and bronze sculptures (6th century BC through the 3rd century AD) from a famous American collection.

Like a teaser, some galleries have announced one or two pieces that make up their TEFAF 2005 collection. Besides 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings, Alazraki will bring paintings from the French Barbizon School. Pelham Galleries in London will show a unique pair of small gilt-wood sofas designed by Robert Adam of London in 1780. Cesare Lampronti in Rome will bring a Vanvitelli painting called View of Ronciglione. The Angela Gräfin von Wallwitz Kunsthandel in Munich will have a fine mahogany traveling case made in Saxony around 1775. Jablonka Galerie in Cologne will offer a large painted chrome steel sculpture by American artist John Chamberlain, while Galerie Cazeau-Béraudière in Paris will carry an André Masson portrait of his wife, painted in 1944.

Just the tip of the iceberg, these pieces represent the sort of quality TEFAF promises and that which lures collectors to the fair. “People are driven to acquire,” notes Van Haeften. He adds that the strength of the art market is that works by most of these artists are finite, “not being made anymore,” which makes them very desirable. Master works do seem to appear from nowhere sometimes. Perhaps they have been in a family vault or on the wall of a monastery for centuries. Mostly, though, they come by way of the “3 Ds — divorce, death and division,” says Witmer. Once part of a private collection, they are recirculated, landing once again in the hands of individuals.

Almost as much as the artwork, many fairgoers anticipate the innovative and elegant annual transformation of the convention center in Maastricht as it morphs into a backdrop for the art. One year 25,000 live roses lined the walls leading to the galleries; last year a fantasy of moving water sculptures greeted visitors. And this year architect Tom Postma of Amsterdam and British designer David Bentheim of London will find inspiration in the paintings of Vermeer. Floors, influenced by the black-and-white tiles ubiquitous in Vermeer’s work, will be strips of various shades of gray. Leather seats, placed throughout the halls, will lend a chic and timeless quality.

Masterpieces from the Detroit Institute of Arts – some acquired at a past TEFAF – will grace the walls. A highlight of the Detroit collection, Flowers in a Glass Vase, was painted by Dutch floral still life specialist Rachel Ruysch. Ruysch is considered the most talented female flower painter in history. “A major female artist, Ruysch became one of the official court painters to one of the German princely houses – the House of Palatinate,” says George Keyes, Detroit Institute of Arts curator. TEFAF will display 35 masterpieces from the institute’s collection of old master paintings, for which it is renowned – works by Rubens, Hals, Tiepolo, Jordaens, de Hooch and Poussin. There will also be 16th-, 17th- and 18th-century sculpture from the Italian Renaissance, including pieces by Girolamo Campagna, Antonio Susini, Hubert Gerhard and the Baroque sculptor Lorenzo Bernini, as well as work by the 18th-century German modeler Johann Kändler, best known for his Meissen figures.

TEFAF 2005 promises to mesmerize.


.TEFAF Address Book
Lodging
Château St. Gerlach, Joseph Corneli Allée 1; 43.608.88.88
Crowne Plaza Maastricht, Ruiterij 1; 43.350.91.91
Hotel Derlon, O.L. Vrouweplein 6; 43.321.67.70

Dining
Beluga, Plein 1992-12; 43.321.33.64
Château Neercanne, Cannerweg 800; 43.325.13.59
Toine Hermsen, Sint Bernardusstraat 2-4; 43.325.84.00
Tout-à-Fait, St. Bernardusstraat 16-18; 43.350.04.05
‘t Plenske, Plankstraat 6; 43.321.84.56
 

Photo credits
Image 1: Pieter de Vries International Fine Art Photography, image 2: Courtesy of Jaime Eguiguren, Arte Y Antigüedades, image 3: Courtesy of Jan Morsink Ikonen, image 4: Courtesy of Dickinson, image 5: Courtesy of Robert Bowman Ltd., image 6: Courtesy of Didier Aaron & Cie, image 7: Courtesy of Kunsthandel Mieke Zilverberg, image 8: Courtesy of David Tunick, Inc., image 9: Courtesy of Gianmaria Buccellati-Mabuti SRL, image 10: Courtesy of Altomani & Sons, image 11: Courtesy of Johnny Van Haeften Ltd., image 12: Courtesy of Cesare Lampronti, image 13: Courtesy of Pelham Galleries Ltd., image 14: Courtesy of Galerie Cazeau-Béraudière, image 15: Courtesy of The Detroit Institute of Arts; image 16: Courtesy of The Detroit Institute of Arts.
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