On
the Go With Barbara Cirkva
This charismatic fashion executive loves couture,
interior and garden design and her whirl of community
commitments.
By
Kim Waller
Barbara Cirkva and her husband, John Schumacher.
Barbara Cirkva and Melania Trump at the 2004 Chanel
Fine Jewelry “Collection Privee” luncheon.
Cirkva's Fleur display at last year's
New York Botanical Garden Antique Garden Furniture
Show and Sale.
An antique offered at Fleur: Cherub on Turtle
Fountain, French, early 1900s.
Maureen Chiquet, CEO and president of Chanel, left,
and Barbara Cirkva.
Barbara's
Favorite … … Chanel accessory or outfit:
A black lace evening dress that will be
perfect forever and Gripoix jewelry done
for Chanel. … collectible:
Charles Schneider glass compotes. … Paris hotel:
The Ritz, because it's the Ritz
and because of the
connection to Coco Chanel. … restaurants:
In NY, all of Daniel Boulud's restaurants
– Sette Mezzo, Swifty's, all
in the neighborhood; in Paris, Le Stressa,
Le Voltaire, the Ritz Bar for lunch, Bofinger
for oysters or
choucroute. … travel items:
My pillow and Frette pillowcase. … airplane activities:
Sleeping; catching up on reading magazines. … comfort food:
Caviar and chicken roasted with black
truffles under the skin. … garden glory:
Glorious roses, blooming all summer long. … getaway:
Capri – we have gone every year
for over 20 years. … vacation:
Our trip to Egypt. … way to start the day:
Walking the dogs. … dinner companion:
Karl Lagerfeld because he is so brilliant. … items to shop for:
Shoes, lingerie, antiques. … room:
The dining room in Coco Chanel's
apartment. … relaxation:
Garden, read, organize closets! … energizer:
Work. … life essentials:
My dogs and my husband (not necessarily
in that order).
It
can get pretty hectic in Karl Lagerfeld's studio in
the days before a major Chanel show in Paris. But if things
aren't too crazy, that stylish woman with the straight
blond hair and calm smile, quietly watching the master fit
his models, would be Barbara Cirkva, the New York-based
executive vice president of fashion for Chanel. For her,
it's a particularly delicious moment in a busy week.
Given that her executive beat includes overseeing U.S. wholesale
and retail – covering Chanel's ready-to-wear,
accessories, shoes, watches and fine jewelry – and
that she serves on several Chanel global committees as well,
Cirkva not only flies to Paris six to eight times a year,
she's also likely to be off to California, Tokyo (there's
a new Chanel shop on the Ginza) or even Guam.
This is the same Barbara Cirkva who, on some Saturday mornings,
can be found at Fleur, her garden antiques shop in Mt. Kisco,
NY (that will relocate to a larger location there in May),
explaining to a customer just where in Provence she and
her husband turned up a certain lovely old garden bench.
As if her day-and-night job were not enough, Cirkva and
her husband, John Schumacher, formerly chairman of Bonwit
Teller and president of I. Magnin in California, started
Fleur three years ago. It's now considered such a
fashionable spot for indoor and outdoor furnishings that
the majority of their clients are interior and landscape
designers. One wonders what impelled this trendsetting pair
with a Manhattan address to start the charming Westchester
shop.
“After we bought our weekend house in Mt. Kisco in
1995,” Cirkva says, “we began looking around
Westchester for special garden antiques – without
much luck. We figured if we were looking, other people were,
too.” Of course, years of right-on retailing instinct
went into the decision, but there was also the matter of
their love for rare and fine things. Couture, at least in
the hands of a house like Chanel, is a living art form,
and for Cirkva, “interior design and garden design
are just a short step away – they're all about
personalizing a beautiful look.”
Fleur's one-of-a-kind pieces tend to come from England,
Italy and the South of France. What's currently in
demand? “Unusual faux bois, also early-to-mid 20th
century,” says Cirkva. “And we're looking
toward Belgium,” adds Schumacher, who, given his wife's
full calendar, handles much of the shop's business.
It's a rare New York week when two or three charity
galas or other social events don't keep this couple
on the go. Perhaps it's a gala for the New York City
Ballet, where Cirkva is on the Special Events Working Committee.
To encourage future marketing talents, she also chairs the
Luxury Education Foundation – though this month she'll
have to race from its cocktail party to a Breast Cancer
Foundation dinner on the same night. Or it could be the
opening night of the opera or the Winter Antiques show.
During New York's Fashion Week in January, “there
may be three or four parties a night!” she says. It's
safe to say that in the social and luxury-industry worlds
where she circulates, Cirkva exudes a rare charisma. Says
her friend Pamela Gross, “It's not only that
she is always chic while maintaining the classic elegance
that is her hallmark. It's also her intelligence,
thoughtfulness and sparkle. Barbara always has the next
idea, the fresh take on what's out there.”
How does she manage such a life without becoming dizzy?
Smoothly. As Arie Kopelman, the vice chairman of Chanel,
told her, “One of your best talents is the ability
to keep so many balls in the air without dropping any.”
Chicago-born Cirkva attributes her even keel to her Midwestern
upbringing. Besides, she's clearly enjoying herself.
Ah, but what to wear? If her closet doesn't yield
enough gowns, little black dresses or tweed jackets, “I
get to borrow new designs from the sample closet. It's
the best of all worlds!” This March in Paris, Cirkva
was intently scanning the runway for something very special
to wear to the May 2 benefit gala for the Metropolitan Museum
of Art's Costume Institute. The Costume Institute
will feature the blockbuster Chanel exhibit, which opens
to the public on May 5 and will run through August 7. It
has been long in the planning, this retrospective of the
visionary Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, who founded
her maison couture in 1912. Despite the more than 50 period
designs and accessories on display, the exhibit is not simply
past tense. In fact, one of its most fascinating elements
will be the chance to juxtapose Coco with Karl, and see
how Lagerfeld, who joined Chanel in 1983, has interpreted
an iconic legacy for women today. “We're always
asking ourselves, ‘if Coco were alive today, what
would she do?' ” says Cirkva.
Just a week previous, quite a different show close to Cirkva's
heart will find her greeting friends at the New York Botanical
Garden's Antique Garden Furniture Show and Sale. Only
select vendors, including Bunny Williams (Treillage) and
Barbara Israel (Barbara Israel Antiques) and, of course,
Fleur, are invited to exhibit. This year Cirkva is a preview
party co-chairman; fortunately, the benefit preview on April
28 is one party that happens by daylight, amid the Garden's
bursting spring blossoms.
If you could glimpse the landscape around the Schumacher
stone house in Mt. Kisco, or see the number of garden books
piled by the bedside, you'd realize what strong roots
connect this garden to the big one in the Bronx. “If
I had lots of free time,” says Cirkva, “I'd
read all of these books I never get to, improve my Italian
and become even more involved with the Botanical Garden.”
But retirement isn't even a blip on her screen. Instead,
there are the weekends here, “my minivacations,”
to romp in jeans with her two white standard poodles, drop
in on Fleur and perhaps invite friends for some of Schumacher's
famous paella. (“He's a fabulous cook!”)
In between, she's likely to pick up her snippers and
have a go at the garden. With her cell phone tucked in a
pocket? “Never,” says Cirkva firmly. “When
I garden, I garden.”
Kim
Waller, a former features editor of Victoria and
Town & Country magazines, is a New York-based
freelance writer and editor.
Photo credits
image 1: Patrick McMullan. image 2 and 5: WireImage. image
3: Robert Benson. Image 4: Courtesy of Fleur.