
Rainbow Explosion cashmere throw by Rebecca Moses
for Wild About Cashmere. |

Rebecca Moses. |

Cashmere polo shirt by Lacoste. |

Cashmere-lined leather backpack by Cucinelli.
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Double-faced cashmere coat with bejeweled closure
by Rebecca Moses for Wild About Cashmere; cashmere-lined
trench coat by Burberry. |
Draped
just so across the shoulders of a lady of means, the
perfect cashmere sweater has been a staple in the
closet of style mavens ever since Coco Chanel shocked
the fashion cognoscenti with her cardigan suit in
1954. The sweater is a versatile necessity for the
modern woman, and the luxurious feel of cashmere has
been a standard-bearer in American women's knits,
particularly during the fall and winter months. Unlike
bohemian skirts or bolero jackets, the right sweater
is always appropriate – worn over a pencil skirt,
the perfect pair of jeans or even paired with a silk
faille ball gown. What has remained more elusive,
though, is cashmere's potential beyond the sweater.
Until now. Thanks to an unprecedented
cross-departmental collection directed exclusively
for Saks Fifth Avenue by renowned designer Rebecca
Moses and supported by the Italian Trade Commission,
cashmere's versatility is taking center stage.
The collection reveals cashmere's possibilities
across seasons and lifestyles, taking it into virtually
every room of one's home in provocative ways.
Wild About Cashmere will be unveiled in all of Saks's
59 stores in September, featuring a range of products
as diverse as handbags, a tie-dyed hammock, a jump
rope, chargers for the dining table and, of course,
a multitude of sweaters. As Saks Fifth Avenue's
president, Andrew Jennings, explains, “By combining
the world's finest fashion designers with one-of-a-kind
merchandise, dramatic in-store installations and an
explosion of color, we've elevated cashmere
to a lifestyle – in a bold, statement-making
way.”
Jetsetting icon of chic elegance
Moses was a natural choice as creative director of
such an ambitious project. A native New Yorker who
has called Italy home for nearly a decade and a half,
Moses is known for her namesake label, years as Genny's
head designer and luxurious lifestyle and home projects.
With a creative vision, a keen eye for the American
consumer market, a perhaps more Italian understanding
of cashmere's immense versatility and long-standing
relationships with fellow design luminaries who were
as excited about the possibilities as she was, Moses
headed up a tour de force collection. Pushing the
envelope along with Moses were contributors including
Vera Wang, Michael Kors, Carlos Falchi and designers
from TSE, Graff and Burberry.
When approached by Ron Frasch,
Saks Fifth Avenue's vice-chairman and chief
merchant, at the Milan collections last year, Moses
was immediately intrigued by the unorthodox structure
of the project. “It was a very creative project,
especially for a retailer the size of Saks,”
she says. “Taking cashmere across departments
is a new way of thinking about retailing, an aggressive
statement. I love vertical projects that give designers
a sense of growth and freedom.” Moses was also
a cashmere lover through and through. “It is
simply an undeniable signature for having arrived,”
she explains. Through her life in and around Milan
as well as traveling the world, Moses saw cashmere
as do most Europeans – as a year-round necessity,
a fiber with potential usage far beyond thick sweaters
and scarves. A distinction of the collection is its
use of only the highest quality cashmere, which is
increasingly scarce and controlled in China. The first
hurdle to overcome, upon which ultimately the entire
collection rested, was securing top-quality raw material
from Mongolia. Once the material was secured in significant
quantities, it was exported to Italy and Scotland
where Moses oversaw the weaving, spinning and dyeing.
During this time, Moses was conceptualizing her own
designs – a diverse sweater salon that fit within
her vision of the whole project as a refashioned Parisian
atelier. For Moses, the sweater is the most iconic
piece in a woman's wardrobe. She explains that
“every woman wears sweaters – whether
for black tie, work or the weekend. The sweater transcends
all time frames and seasons – it truly is the
champion of any woman's wardrobe.”
While designing the sweater salon,
she was also meeting with old friends in the industry
to get their wheels of inspiration turning. Confirming
her understanding of cashmere's versatility
were the multifarious products each designer came
up with. That one collection includes a TSE cashmere
sleeping bag, diamond-laden jewelry from Graff and
a Vera Wang dress speaks to the collection's
success at pushing across boundaries. Although lifestyle
is a category increasingly used in retail markets
throughout Europe, Moses suggests that the U.S. is
the ideal market for a collection as ambitious as
Wild About Cashmere. “When trying to achieve
an entrepreneurial vision,” explains Moses,
“the U.S. is still the land of retail opportunity.
As an American designer, I have always had the impulse
to question the validity of a product, to question
the process I use and to try a different way. On the
other hand, Italy is truly the last bastion of luxury
manufacturing in the world.” Having lived amid
the rich Italian history of artisanship (her husband
is a mill owner outside of Milan) Moses remains in
awe of the pride and craftsmanship in manufacturing
luxury textiles, jewelry and home-related products.
Quality – of material and
craftsmanship – is of the utmost importance
to Moses, as is evident in the Wild About Cashmere
collection. Even the pieces that are affordable to
a bridge customer are composed of high-quality cashmere,
allowing younger clients who have embraced cashmere
to enjoy the collection as well. But what remains
the key concept in Moses's definition of luxury
is exclusivity. For customers who want precious commodities,
Moses ensured limited-series pieces that carry not
a logo to give them distinction but the wearer's
knowledge of the piece's exclusivity. For Moses,
a connoisseur of luxury, this sense was the driving
philosophy behind the project. An exclusive to Saks
Fifth Avenue, Wild About Cashmere will be available
from September through the holiday season.
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