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Inside the Beltway
What to do and see in Washington, DC.
By Gail Scott
The Washington Monument at sunset
The Washington Monument at sunset.

The Meridian International Center
The Meridian International Center.
Cellist Yo-Yo Ma will perform at the Season Opening Ball Concert of the National Symphony Orchestra
Cellist Yo-Yo Ma will perform at the Season Opening Ball Concert of the National Symphony Orchestra.
 Insider Attractions

AFTA Gala at the British Embassy; 301.718.4990

Finnish Embassy,
3301 Massachusetts Avenue; 202.298.5886;
www.finland.org

International Gold Cup, Great Meadow, VA; www.vagoldcup.com

Meridian Ball; 800.424.2974

Museum of the American Indian; 202.633.1000;
www.americanindian.si.edu

National Symphony Ball, The Kennedy Center; 202.416.8063

Smithsonian American Art Museum Renwick Gallery; 202.633.2850; www.americanart.si.edu

Last year’s International Gold Cup race
Last year's International Gold Cup race.

National Museum of the American Indian
National Museum of the American Indian.
Charter Company, a division of International Silver Company, cocktail shaker; 1928, enameled silver, ebony. Dallas Museum of Art, The Jewel Stern American Silver Collection, part of Modernism in American Silver 20th-Century Design at the Renwick Gallery
Charter Company, a division of International Silver Company, cocktail shaker; 1928, enameled silver, ebony. Dallas Museum of Art, The Jewel Stern American Silver Collection, part of Modernism in American Silver 20th-Century Design at the Renwick Gallery.
.Address Book

Lodging
Four Seasons, 2800 Pennsylvania Avenue NW;
800.332.3442; $475 - $6,400
The Hay-Adams, One Lafayette Square NW; 800.424.5054; $345 - $5,250
The Mandarin Oriental, 1330 Maryland Avenue SW; 888.888.1778; $405 - $8,000
Willard InterContinental, 1401 Pennsylvania Avenue NW;
800.327.0200; $269 - $4,200

Dining
Cafe Milano, 3251 Prospect Street NW; 202.333.6183
Ceiba, 701 14th Street NW; 202.393.3983
Citronelle, 3000 M Street NW; 202.625.2150
CityZen at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel; 202.787.6006
DC Coast, 1401 K Street NW; 202.216.5988
Kinkead's, 2000 Pennsylvania Avenue NW; 202.296.7700
Seasons at the Four Seasons Georgetown; 202.342.0444
1789, 1226 36th Street NW; 202.965.1789
Teatro Goldoni, 1909 K Street NW; 202.955.9494
TenPenh, 1001 Pennsylvania Ave NW; 202.393.4500

Shopping
Artefacto, 3333 M Street NW; no phone at press time
Ann Hand, 2900 M Street NW; 202.333.1529
Gore Dean, 3338 M Street NW; 202.625.9199
Keith Lipert Gallery, 2922 M Street NW; 202.965.9736
Pirjo, 1044 Wisconsin Avenue NW; 202.337.1390
relish, 3312 Cady's Alley NW; 202.333.5343
The Phoenix, 1514 Wisconsin Avenue NW; 202.338.4404

Politics and power, that's Washington – where the President comes first, world leaders congregate, cabinet members play heavyweight, the Supreme Court rules, Congress vies for votes, lobbyists cajole, lawyers argue and the media decide the headlines. Top diplomats from more than 170 nations live and work here; black-tie events are de rigueur and, now, so is donning cowboy hats. Stuffy old Washington has blossomed into a fascinating world center that is hip, fun and accessible.

    Now you can attend a gala at the British Embassy and dine with an ambassador, explore Georgetown's hot, new Cady's Alley or bike on the C & O Canal, hop a water taxi for lunch in Olde Town and still catch the highly acclaimed Washington Ballet or National Symphony at the Kennedy Center that same night.

    “There has been a transformation of Washington,” says Four Seasons concierge Mel Odilao. A fixture at this luxury Georgetown hotel for almost 25 years, Odilao has seen dramatic changes in the Nation's capital. “Washington used to be a sleepy town and now it's an international city comparable to Paris.” You need only decide among numerous first-choice hotels, must-try restaurants and unique events.

    Georgetown's Four Seasons has been gloriously “reinvented,” with expanded plush suites by interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon (of Four Seasons' Georges V Paris fame), an intimate spa, and Seasons restaurant, which serves the city's best Sunday brunch and afternoon tea.

    Located on Pennsylvania Avenue near the White House is the historic beaux arts Willard InterContinental, featuring a new sidewalk café and spa. The cozy Hay-Adams on Lafayette Square overlooks the White House. Between The Mall and the Jefferson Memorial is the huge, sparkling new Mandarin Oriental, with an impressive spa.

    When it's time to dine, Michel Richard's Citronelle in Georgetown and CityZen at the Mandarin Oriental are tops. Cafe Milano in Georgetown is a must for Euro chicks and stars such as George Clooney, Bo Derek and even Dr. Ruth. Teatro Goldoni's Chef Fabrizio Aielli, a CBS regular, creates Venetian specialties (don't miss his fritto misto) that will make you think you're on the Grand Canal. If you love seafood, head for Kinkead's. Over at Georgetown's 1789, chef Ris Lacoste (formerly of Nantucket's 21 Federal) is famous for her seasonal specialties and incredibly succulent lamb.

    For adventure, try DC Coast, TenPenh and Ceiba, a celebrated group of restaurants that are adding Acadiana (Cajun seafood) this fall. And watch for the opening of Zengo, a product of chef Richard Sandoval and Plácido Domingo (they created New York's hit Pampano together and will add chef Alan Yu for this Latin-Asian “give and take” (that's zengo translated).

    Love a party? Then join Kennedy Center vice-chair Alma Powell and former Secretary of State Colin Powell on September 24 as they open The National Symphony's 75th season with a star-studded concert followed by the annual NSO Ball, signaling the beginning of Washington's fall social calendar. Music director Leonard Slatkin has invited three of today's most distinguished guest artists: pianist Emanuel Ax, violinist Itzhak Perlman and cellist Yo-Yo Ma.

    The NSO Annual Decorators' Show House, to be held October 2 - 31, is another popular fall event. Twenty-four local interior and landscape designers will magically transform Hidden Brook Manor, a private McLean residence.

    Of all the diplomatic invitations, the British Embassy is always one of the most coveted. On October 5, you can walk up the red carpet to meet His Excellency, the British Ambassador and Lady Manning in their grand residence, built in 1928 and designed by Britain's renowned architect Sir Edwin Lutyens. Washington sculptor Lolo Sarnoff heads this 17th Annual Gala for her organization, AFTA (Arts for the Aging). With wines from around the world and a buffet dinner prepared by the Ambassador's chef, you will be in a wonderful mood to bid on auction items that include other embassy events.

    October 14 is the Meridian Ball. Attend a pre-ball dinner at one of 35 different embassies and then join all the ambassadors and VIP guests for dessert and dancing at Meridian International Center, a fabulous hillside mansion that is on the Historic Registry.

    Also not to be missed on Embassy Row: The Finnish Embassy, a contemporary green glass house, is holding Sauma [Design as Cultural Interface], an interactive design show, from October 7 - November 13. Smart clothing, multimedia installations, new sauna concepts, experimental kitchens and innovative multipurpose furniture will be on display to celebrate Finnish Design Year.

    Autumn in Virginia horse country means the International Gold Cup at Great Meadow on the third Saturday in October. Wear your hat, take a gourmet picnic and enjoy this glamorous steeplechase.

    Back on The Mall, be sure to visit to the Museum of the American Indian, an undulating sandstone building that is unforgettable. And if you go to the new World War II Memorial, don't forget FDR's “walking memorial” nearby. Over at the Renwick Gallery, there's a wonderful Art Deco silver show and Winslow Homer at The National Gallery. Some of the niftiest gifts can be found in museum shops.

    Then there's shopping in Georgetown. First stop, Cady's Alley on M Street for delightful designs for you and your home. Gore Dean is a magnificent mélange of fine antiques, Debbie Dean's own designs, top-drawer tablewear and outrageous must-haves. On the cobblestone street behind, discover relish, overlooking the Canal and offering fresh European fashions for men and women, all handpicked by Nancy Pearlstein (whose family owns Louis of Boston). Pause at Leopold's Kafe + Konditorei before you investigate Washington's newest furniture import, award-winning Artefacto from Brazil.

    Further down M Street, Keith Lipert Gallery is well known for consistently high-quality design. Go there for glamorous fashion jewelry and unusual personal and business gifts. Ann Hand, who's known for her patriotic pins and custom designs, has a new store at the corner at 29th and M. Both these boutiques are rich in Washington souvenirs to wear home.

    Two special dress shops on Wisconsin Avenue are Pirjo, just below the Canal and always a delightful surprise of unusual Scandinavian women's wear, jewelry and house gifts, and The Phoenix, up the hill and offering beautiful Indian jewelry, Mexican designs and sophisticated-yet-relaxed women's wear.

    Before heading back to your hotel, there are big decisions to be made: just up Wisconsin, Argentine ice cream at Isee Icy, or Belgian truffles at Leonidas or irresistible French pastry at Patisserie Poupon. Forget the calories – this is an experiment in international living!
Journalist and media consultant Gail Scott, author of Diplomatic Dance: the New Embassy Life in America, is a native Washingtonian, former TV anchorwoman and radio host.
Photo credit:
Image 1: JakeMcGuire.com, Image 2: Courtesy of the Meridian International Center, Image 3: Courtesy of the National Symphony Orchestra, Image 4: Virginia Gold Cup Association, Image 5: Jeff Tinsley, Smithsonian Institution, Image 6: Courtesy of the Smithsonian American Art Museum Renwick Gallery.
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