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WINE & SPIRITS WITH PANACHE
2004's Remarkable Releases
Here are four wines selected from those that became available in 2004 that are not only outstanding in their own right but judged as bottles to be enjoyed now as well as over the next 5 to 10 years.
2002 Acacia Carneros Pinot Noir Domestic Red
2002 Acacia Carneros Pinot Noir ($20)

As cleverly noted in the movie Sideways, California Pinot Noir is the Merlot of the 2000s – a complex, yet fruity, easy-drinking alternative to dense, tannic Cabernet Sauvignon, many taking a decade or more to enjoy. This wine was made from 100-percent Pinot Noir grapes, the majority of which were grown on the property surrounding Acacia's Napa Valley facility. Winemaker Anthony King barrel-fermented the grapes and barrel-aged the wine for nine months. It shows a bouquet and taste of black cherries and cassis with hints of herbs and marries well with barbecued ribs and rosemary roasted chicken.
 
2002 Newton Unfiltered Domestic White
2002 Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay ($56)

This is a wine for those tired of overripe and over-oaked California Chardonnays and outrageously overpriced French white Burgundies. Initially introduced in 1990, it's made from 100-percent Chardonnay grapes grown primarily on hillside vineyards in California's Carneros region. Winemaker and co-proprietor Dr. Su Hua Newton insists on using only ripe grapes and fermentation with natural yeast. Barrel-aging is for 24 months. The wine shows a golden color, a bouquet of citrus and orange and a memorable well-balanced, dry lingering taste of apples and butter. Try it with lobster, shrimp and grilled fish.
2002 Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny International Red
2002 Louis Jadot
Chambolle-Musigny
($40)

Originally planted in the chalky soil of Chambolle-Musigny by the monks of Vougeot in the 1200s, the Pinot Noir varietal from this Burgundy region produces elegant, delicate wines that can usually be enjoyed within a few years of vinification. This product was blended by Maison Louis from 100-percent Pinot Noir grapes grown on a number of small parcels, especially a prized one-acre lot owned by André Gagey. The wine shows a bouquet of berries and violets, has a satiny taste of ripe red fruit and a touch of delicate tannin in the finish. Mate it with beef, lamb or salmon.
2002 Bastianich Tocai Plus International White
2002 Bastianich Tocai Plus ($40)

Formerly lashed by complaints of little flavor, off-odors and poor balance, Italian whites are now going through a renaissance. At the forefront of this movement are the Tocais from the northeastern Friuli region, well represented by this powerful wine from proprietors Joseph and Lidia Bastianich (well-known for their acclaimed NYC restaurants Felidia, Becco, etc., as well as Lidia's cooking shows and cookbooks). Made from 60-year-old Tocai Friulano vines, 10 percent of the crop is harvested late. The complex, fruity bouquet and taste of ripe melons and pears with a hint of almonds pairs perfectly with hors d'oeuvres or with fruit and cheese.
Prices listed are suggested retail.
Geoff Kalish, M.D.
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