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the Trinity River reflects the buildings that give Dallas its striking skyline

Dallas is realizing its ambition to become
one of the country’s premier cultural destinations.

By Diana Mehl
Above: the Trinity River reflects the buildings that give Dallas its striking skyline.

The Dallas Museum of Art
The Dallas Museum of Art.
The throne hall in the Mansion of Heavenly Purity from the DMA’s Splendors of China exhibit
The throne hall in the Mansion of Heavenly Purity from the DMA’s Splendors of China exhibit.
A kimono from the From Geisha to Diva: the Kimonos of Ichimaru exhibition at the Crow Collection of Asian Art
A kimono from the From Geisha to Diva: the Kimonos of Ichimaru exhibition at the Crow Collection of Asian Art.
Not content with being the largest business and banking center in the Southwest, the home to six professional sports teams, a food lover’s paradise having more restaurants per capita than any other U.S. city (some of the nation’s best as well) and a mecca for luxury shopping (Neiman Marcus’s base) – Dallas has been working to add “major cultural destination” to its list of bragging rights.

Many years in the planning, the Dallas Arts District, a 17-block, 60-acre neighborhood in the northeast part of downtown Dallas, is billed as “the largest urban arts district in the nation.” The District is home to some of the most exciting art collections in the country as well as one of the best acoustically designed concert halls in the world. Its prominent cultural institutions, which are designed by the who’s who of the architecture world, help carve out Dallas’s distinctive downtown skyline.

Any visit to the District should begin at The Dallas Museum of Art (DMA), which was the first institution to inaugurate the District in 1984. Designed by Edward Larrabee Barnes, the museum is known for its stellar collections of pre-Columbian art, European and American paintings, American and international contemporary art and an impressive lineup of visiting shows. Currently on view through May 29 is the spectacular Splendors of China’s Forbidden City, a landmark exhibition of 400 artifacts from 18th-century imperial China that have never been seen in the U.S. Many have never even left China. This past February, the museum made front-page news with the announcement of a donation of three major private collections containing more than 800 works, solidifying its position as one of the most important centers for contemporary art.

Next door to the DMA is the Trammell & Margaret Crow Collection of Asian Art, where an imposing 17th-century Chinese bronze statue of a seated Confucius greets visitors at the entrance. The museum displays more than 300 works of art from China, Japan, India and Southeast Asia dating from 3500 B.C. to the early 20th century. While the collection encompasses the finest examples of Buddhist sculpture, Japanese crystal spheres and screen paintings, its highlights are the noted collection of Chinese jade ornaments and a rare sandstone façade of an 18th-century Indian residence. Also not to be missed is the lovely sculpture garden at the adjacent Trammell Crow Center, with 20 French masterpiece bronzes – including works by Rodin, Maillol and Bourdelle.

Across the street lies the District’s newest addition – the Nasher Sculpture Center, home to one of the world’s best private collections of modern and contemporary sculpture (see interview with Raymond Nasher in The Collector column). Current special exhibitions include: David Smith: Drawing and Sculpting, 15 seminal sculptures and 70 drawings, many of which have not been displayed previously; and, on loan from the artist Jonathan Borofsky, the dramatic Walking to the Sky, which soars 100 feet into the sky, towering 75 feet above the trees and building at the Center.

Two blocks east of the museums is the Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center, home to the Dallas Symphony Orchestra, Dallas Wind Symphony, Turtle Creek Chorale and the Greater Dallas Youth Orchestra. Designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect I.M. Pei, the 2,062-seat Center set a new standard for acoustics when it opened in 1989, and is one of the world’s top symphony halls. Particularly noteworthy and the visual focal point of the Center’s Eugene McDermott Concert Hall is the Herman W. and Amelia H. Lay Family Concert Organ, one of the largest ever built for a concert hall.

Not exactly resting on these laurels, The Arts District has embarked on a new phase of development. The Dallas Center for the Performing Arts, an ambitious $275-million project scheduled to be completed in 2009, will provide state-of-the-art performance spaces for opera, theater and dance. The new venues will include: the Margot and Bill Winspear Opera House, to be designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Norman Foster; and the Dee and Charles Wyly Theatre, to be designed by Pritzker winner Rem Koolhaas. Upon completion, Dallas will have the distinction of being the only city in the world with four buildings designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architects located in one contiguous block.

Impressed yet? You will be when you see it for yourself. You can experience a big dose of Texas-size Southern hospitality during the weekend of June 10 - 12 as Dallas launches its 2nd annual CityArts Festival. Celebrating the city’s performing, visual and culinary arts, the festival features special museum events, outdoor concerts, multicultural performances, a visual artist showcase and cooking demonstrations. See you there.
Address Book

Dallas is justifiably famous for its fashionable, extravagant hotels, distinctive Southwestern cuisine and superb shopping.

Lodging

The Mansion on Turtle Creek

2821 Turtle Creek Boulevard
$400 - $2,400 per night
214.559.2100; www.mansiononturtlecreek.com
A perennial on the list of the world’s best hotels, this legendary establishment in one of Dallas’s most fashionable residential neighborhoods is a paragon of elegance, luxury and service.

Hotel Crescent Court
400 Crescent Court
$375 - $3,000 per night
214.871.3232; www.crescentcourt.com
Conveniently situated in the heart of the Arts District and resembling a French château, the hotel is famous for its Spa at The Crescent – an opulent 22,000-square-foot facility offering 77 unique treatments – which is considered one of the best urban spas in the country. The Crescent’s already celebrated dining experience will be enhanced in June with the opening of the Dallas branch of the acclaimed Japanese restaurant Nobu.

Hotel ZaZa
2332 Leonard Street
$185 - $1,350 per night
214.468.8399; www.hotelzaza.com
Dallas’s new hip hotel has attracted a celebrity clientele that includes Jerry Seinfeld, Jessica Simpson, Britney Spears and Jon Bon Jovi. In addition to the original Helmut Newton fashion photography adorning the hallways and a seductive Mediterranean décor, the hotel features 13 extravagantly designed Concept Suites with such diverse themes as Out of Africa, West Indies, Zen and Bohemia.

Dining

Abacus

4511 McKinney Ave.; 214.559.3111
www.abacus-restaurant.com
Three art-filled dining rooms, a European-style theatre kitchen and an elegant clientele set the scene for award-winning chef Kent Rathbun’s eclectic mix of Mediterranean, Cajun/Creole, American, Pacific Rim and Southwestern cuisine. Along with its signature dish – lobster shooters – the restaurant is well known for its inventive, delicious and very decadent desserts.

Dragonfly
2332 Leonard Street; 214.468.8399
Mediterranean- and Asian-inspired menus designed by celebrity chef Stephan Pyles are artfully presented in a luxurious tented dining room.

Mansion on Turtle Creek
2821 Turtle Creek Boulevard; 214.559.2100
www.mansiononturtlecreek.com
This restaurant, housed in the grand 1925 Italian Renaissance-style Sheppard King Mansion – with its hand-carved fireplaces, marble floors and inlaid wood ceilings – features the remarkable Southwestern cuisine of Dallas’s most renowned chef, Dean Fearing, including his signature dishes, Warm Lobster Taco with Yellow Tomato Salsa and Tortilla Soup.

Shopping

Galleria Dallas

13355 Noel Road; www.galleriadallas.com
Luxury purveyors such as Gianni Versace, Gucci and Louis Vuitton are in this elegant mall, which is inspired by Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.

Highland Park Village
47 Highland Park Shopping Village; www.hpvillage.com
Located in the exclusive Highland Park neighborhood, this charming shopping area features high-end boutiques such as Chanel, Hermès and Jimmy Choo – along with beautiful, Mediterranean-style architecture.

NorthPark Center
1030 NorthPark Center; www.northparkcenter.com
Built by developer and art collector Raymond Nasher, NorthPark Center boasts both world-class shopping – at Neiman Marcus, Tiffany & Co. and Burberry, among other stores – and a world-renowned collection of modern sculpture.

Stanley Korshak
500 Crescent Court; www.stanleykorshak.com
Luxury apparel and accessories for men and women with an emphasis on personal service.

Clockwise from top left: the Crescent Court Hotel; the living room of the ZaZa Suite at Hotel ZaZa; the grand staircase at the Mansion on Turtle Creek restaurant; the Bar area at Abacus restaurant
Clockwise from top left: the Crescent Court Hotel; the living room of the ZaZa Suite at Hotel ZaZa; the grand staircase at the Mansion on Turtle Creek restaurant; the Bar area at Abacus restaurant.
The Meadows Museum with Santiago Calatrava’s Wave (2002) in the foreground
The Meadows Museum with Santiago Calatrava’s Wave (2002) in the foreground.
Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velázquez, Female Figure (Sibyl with Tabula Rasa), circa 1648, oil on canvas
Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velázquez, Female Figure (Sibyl with Tabula Rasa), circa 1648, oil on canvas.

Hidden Gem of Spanish Art

The Meadows Museum of Dallas is a hidden treasure that should not be missed. Located on the beautiful campus of Southern Methodist University, which is a ten-minute drive from the Arts District, the museum houses one of the largest and most comprehensive collections of Spanish art outside of Spain, with works dating from the 10th to the 20th centuries. Highlights include masterpieces by El Greco, Velázquez, Ribera, Murillo, Goya, Miró and Picasso. The museum also has an impressive sculpture collection, including Wave by Santiago Calatrava, which greets visitors at the museum’s entrance, as well as works by Rodin, Maillol, Giacometti and Moore, among others.

Under the direction of its innovative director Ted Pillsbury, the Meadows Museum is expanding the scope of it exhibitions. “Over the next eighteen months the museum will continue to augment and refine its unique founding collection of Spanish art while mounting major exhibits devoted to African-American art of the Deep South, Spanish painting from Fortuny to Picasso, Juan van der Hamen and the Royal Court, as well as the art of Jerry Bywaters, O’Neil Ford’s architecture and the fashion of Balenciaga,” says Pillsbury.

Meadows Museum
Crafting Traditions: The Architecture of Mark Lemmon
The Art of the Book: A Centennial Tribute to Stanley Marcus, Bibliophile
From Drawing to Painting: Roger Winter’s Subway Series and Beyond – A Seventieth-Birthday Tribute

Through July 31
214.768.2516
www.meadowsmuseumdallas.org

The main performance hall inside the Meyerson Symphony Center
The main performance hall inside the Meyerson Symphony Center.

Art & the Performing Arts

Dallas Museum of Art
Splendors of China’s Forbidden City:
The Glorious Reign of Emperor Qianlong
Though May 29
Gordon Parks, Half Past Autumn: Selections from the Collection of the Corcoran Gallery of Art
June 6 – September 4
214.922.1200
www.dallasmuseumofart.org

Dallas Symphony Orchestra
214.692.0203
www.dallassymphony.com

Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center
214.670.3600
www.mhmsc.com

Nasher Sculpture Center
David Smith: Drawing and Sculpting
Through July 17
214.242.5100
www.nashersculpturecenter.org

The Trammell & Margaret Crow Collection of Asian Art
From Geisha to Diva: The Kimonos of Ichimaru
Through May 15
214.979.6430
www.crowcollection.org

Photo credits
image 1: Courtesy of the Dallas Convention & Visitors Bureau. image 2: Courtesy of the Dallas Convention & Visitors Bureau. image 3: © Palace Museum, Beijing. image 4: Courtesy of the Crow Collection of Asian Art. image 5,6,7,8 clockwise from top left: Courtesy of Rosewood Hotels & Resorts, Courtesy of Hotel ZaZa, Courtesy of Abacus, Courtesy of Rosewood Hotels & Resorts. image 9: Carolyn Brown. image 10: Courtesy of Meadows Museum, Southern Methodist University, Dallas, Algur H. Meadows Collection. image 11: Courtesy of the Dallas Convention & Visitors Bureau.
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