A
favorite stomping ground of Seabourn Pride is the Carribean.
Here, the 440-foot vessel stops in St. Lucia.
Although the long-awaited launch of Queen Mary 2 created
many headlines in 2004, one of the biggest trends in the
cruise world right now is booking passage on small luxury
ships that deliver passengers to places where they could
never go before – with a level of service and amenities
once reserved for only the largest boats.
A small cruise ship is often defined by the number of its
passengers: fewer than 500. But for this story, we have
narrowed the criteria to ships that don’t carry more
than 200 people. With so few passengers to look after, the
service is often comparable to having your own private yacht.
There’s no mad rush to sign up for shore excursions,
and you’ll probably be on a first-name basis with
much of the crew by the end of the first day.
The most distinct advantage of smaller cruisers is the fact
that they can anchor in bays, coves and ports that larger
ships can never visit because of their stupendous size.
In this way, small ships can tailor their itineraries to
much more specific interests and whisk their passengers
to exotic shores that would otherwise be almost impossible
to visit.
With smaller boats, the emphasis tends to be on what’s
outside the ship rather than what you’ll find onboard.
Nature, culture and water sports are the primary forms of
entertainment, not flashy floating casinos and variety shows.
And, despite the emphasis on luxury, the overall ambience
of smaller boats tends to be much more casual, which is
evident when it comes to dinnertime apparel.
Seabourn
Pride
Since the day of its launch – when Shirley Temple
Black burst a champagne bottle over the bow – Seabourn
Pride has sailed with a certain savoir-faire. Although the
ship can carry as many as 208 guests, the feel is really
more of a large oceangoing yacht, where the pampering and
the exotic panoramas never seem to end. In addition to being
the largest ship in our survey, the sleek 440-foot vessel
is also the fastest, capable of reaching a cruising speed
of 16 knots.
The Ship
An extreme makeover in 2003 took Seabourn Pride to a whole
new level of comfort and style, including the addition of
plush balcony suites on the fifth and sixth decks. But the
great thing about this ship is the fact that every cabin
is a suite – with a queen bed, a spacious sitting
area, a large walk-in closet, and a coffee table that easily
converts into a proper dining table for romantic meals or
those times when you simply feel like dining in the privacy
of your own cabin. Floor-to-ceiling sliding-glass doors
or picture windows in the suites afford incredible views
of the passing scenery or the port to which you happen to
be anchored.
Larger also means more facilities – an intimate library
stocked with hundreds of books, a computer room with Internet
service, a card room and casino, a gymnasium and spa, three
different whirlpools and an outdoor swimming pool. Shows
and lectures are staged in the roomy Magellan Lounge, while
nightly piano music entertains guests in the glass-enclosed
Constellation Lounge on the top deck. A floating “marina”
that unfolds at the back of the boat features myriad water
sports (sailing, kayaking, windsurfing, waterskiing) and
a special steel-mesh pool for ocean swimming.
The Frills
Seabourn goes out its way to create an ambiance like none
other on the high seas. From simple pleasures like movies
under the stars (with fresh popcorn) and on-deck massage
to more refined charms like caviar beach parties and the
Dress Circle onboard enrichment program and lecture series,
Pride delivers an experience that even much larger boats
would be hard-pressed to match.
Aureole maestro Charlie Palmer dreams up culinary delights
for the whole Seabourn fleet, a menu of upscale dishes that
runs all the way from classics like prime rib and rack of
veal to more offbeat treats like citrus-marinated fluke
and barigoule of artichoke.
Alleviate your after-meal guilt in the Spa at Seabourn,
recently voted the best seagoing health-and-beauty center
by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. New Elemis therapies
combine touches of various exotic spa cultures, including
Thai and Balinese massage, Japanese shiatsu and Reiki, Hawaiian
lomi lomi and Indian Ayurvedic treatments.
The Cruise
From the Amazon to Patagonia and New England to the Norwegian
fiords, Seabourn Pride covers a lot of geography in a given
year. But one of its favorite stomping grounds is the Caribbean,
in particular a cruise departing November 11 that calls
on legendary yacht havens like St. Barts, Virgin Gorda and
the Grenadines, and more out-of-the-way places like Isla
Margarita off the Venezuelan coast. The ship’s shallow
draft allows it to slip into bays where the big cruise ships
can never venture. Among the posh shore adventures planned
for this trip are a Caviar in the Surf beach barbecue at
Virgin Gorda and Mayreau. From $5,376 per person.
Top:
The Ritsurin Koen in Takamatsu City, Kagawa Prefecture
on Shikoku
island is among the most renowned traditional gardens
of Japan.
Above: the 295-foot Spirit of Oceanus at sea.
Spirit of Oceanus
This 120-guest ship is the most sumptuous of the Cruise
West fleet, which specializes in small, upscale expedition-type
voyages along the shores of Alaska, British Columbia, Siberia
and Japan. Founded by legendary Alaska bush pilot Chuck
West in 1946, the company pioneered small ships and private
yacht adventures along the Inside Passage and has long been
a trendsetter in wilderness cruising.
The Ship
Launched in 2000, the all-suite Oceanus brings a new level
of comfort and style to the Northern Pacific cruise experience.
High-tech stabilizers ease the passage across open water
like the Gulf of Alaska and the Sea of Japan. The 295-foot-long
vessel can reach a top speed of 14.5 knots. In addition
to two comfortable lounges, the ship boasts a game room
and library, a medical clinic and a boutique. Elevators
ease access to all decks. Internet and e-mail service are
readily available.
The 59 cabins are spread across five decks, including 15
rooms with private teak decks and lounge chairs. All are
equipped with walk-in closets or wardrobes, roomy marble
bathrooms, a lounge area and satellite phone access. The
blue-and-gold-fabric scheme works well with the wood-paneled
walls, lending the cabins an air of seaborne luxury. Most
sumptuous of all is the Owner’s Suite, which features
a living room, a bathroom with whirlpool tub, a cutting-edge
electronic entertainment system and sliding glass doors
leading onto a private sundeck.
The Frills
Zodiacs provide quick-and-easy transport to shore in remote
locations where naturalist guides take guests on nature
walks and wildlife encounters. Each cabin comes equipped
with two umbrellas and two pairs of binoculars for shore
excursions. On the beauty and style front, Oceanus is the
only ship in the Cruise West fleet with in-room hairdryers
and laundry service.
The dining room at the back of the main deck serves a wide
range of tasty Continental and regional cuisine. Evening
meals are often preceded by wine tasting in the lounge.
The crew is quick to point out that casual attire is de
rigueur. Their advice: Leave the evening gowns at home,
and the sport coat and tie with them. A tub on the Sports
Deck provides a relaxing venue for an afternoon drink –
adding to the informal atmosphere – as the incredible
North Pacific scenery floats by.
The Cruise
“Japan Unveiled” is a new cruise designed for
those who want to experience the lush culture and chromatic
scenery of northwest Asia. Departing in March, April –
and in September and October when the Japanese foliage is
reminiscent of that in New England – Oceanus sails
between Niigata on the Sea of Japan and Kobe on the Inland
Sea, on a 14-day voyage that gives guests an in-depth look
at the Land of the Rising Sun. Among the highlights are
17th-century Himeji Castle (where much of Shogun was filmed),
the famous shrine at Itsukushima and the UNESCO World Heritage
city of Kyongju in South Korea. Japanese cuisine, traditional
ceremonies and hot springs are an integral part of this
cruise. Extensions to Nara and Kyoto are available. From
$5,699 per person in 2007. (The 2006 cruise was sold out
at press time.)
The
344-foot SeaDream I docked at the island of Korcula
in Croatia (top), and at sea (above).
SeaDream
SeaDream calls its vessels “ultra-luxury mega-yachts,”
rather than cruise ships. And that’s not far from
the truth. The brainchild of Seabourn cruise maestros Larry
Pimentel and Atle Brynestad, SeaDream has become the epitome
of intimate opulence on the high seas, setting a standard
that few other cruise companies can match. “It’s
yachting, not cruising” is the SeaDream motto. The
oceangoing adventures are all-inclusive, with flexible sailing
itineraries and overnight stays in select ports so that
guests can sample the local nightlife and gourmet scene.
The Ship
From award-winning dining and service and Balinese daybeds
on the sundeck, to champagne-and-caviar beach barbecues
and a lavish spa, SeaDream I has been recognized as the
most luxurious experience on water (short of having your
own private yacht). Completely redesigned and refitted in
2002, the 110-passenger ship plies seasonal routes in the
Caribbean, the Mediterranean and South America. The 344-foot
vessel can hit a top speed of 15 knots. Guests pass the
time in two restaurants and four different bars, as well
as a boutique, a card room, and a casino with two blackjack
tables.
Three decks accommodate 55 guest cabins, all with ocean
views. Although smaller and larger staterooms are available,
the most popular are the 390-square-foot Commodore Club
Staterooms, which (like Noah’s Ark) feature two of
everything – his-and-her bathrooms, closets, writing
desks, mini-fridges, sofas and even two beds (instead of
a single king), if you prefer. The plush bathrooms are equipped
with Bulgari amenities, a multi-jet shower massage and custom
bathrobes, while the entertainment choices include CD and
DVD players and flat-screen TVs.
The Frills
Not many ships of this size (or even larger) boast their
own luxury spa and fitness center. Thai massage, tai chi
and yoga are just a few of the offerings, either indoors
or on deck. The workout area sports everything from elliptical
machines to free weights, and the spa also features a hair
and nail salon.
A retractable “marina” water-sports platform
provides water skis, kayaks, wave runners, snorkel equipment
and Sunfish sailboats. Mountain bikes are available for
shore excursions.
SeaDream I also offers a state-of-the-art indoor golf simulator
that provides guests with a selection of 30 famous courses
around the world. The onboard activities director can also
arrange tee times at top golf courses in various ports of
call in the Caribbean, the Mediterranean and South America.
The Cruise
From early July to late October, SeaDream I will be based
in the eastern Mediterranean. Several seven-day itineraries
are offered, including cruises across the northern Aegean
to Istanbul, through the Corinth Canal and up the gorgeous
Adriatic Sea to Dubrovnik and Venice, and across the southern
Aegean to Santorini, Crete, Antalya and Turkey’s turquoise
coast.
Given the flexible nature of SeaDream itineraries, the first
and last ports are fixed, but there is always room for variation
between, according to the whim of the passengers. And sometime
during each voyage, the ship will anchor for SeaDream’s
Champagne-and-Caviar Splash at a secluded beach. From $4,599
per person at press time.
SeaDream Yacht Club
800.707.4911; www.seadreamyachtclub.com
Top:
Orion zodiacs in Kimberley, Australia. These inflatable
boats, originally designed for expedition work, allow
access to sites that are normally
inaccessible to travelers. Above: the 340-foot Orion.
Orion
Based in Australia, the 100-guest Orion is arguably the
most sophisticated “expedition” cruise ship
plying the seven seas today. Launched in 2003, the vessel
is both the epitome of elegance and a standard-bearer for
environmentally friendly cruising. Itineraries include popular
destinations like Australia’s Great Barrier Reef and
Antarctic, and more offbeat locations like Papua New Guinea
and the Indonesian archipelago.
The Ship
Built in Germany, the 340-foot Orion can anchor and maneuver
in much smaller bays and coves than larger cruise ships.
The hull is ice-reinforced for polar voyages, while Blohm
& Voss retractable fin stabilizers make open-ocean crossings
much more comfortable.
Onboard facilities include a state-of-the-art lecture theater
with surround-sound and armchair seats, an observation lounge
(with expansive sea views) where early-riser breakfast and
afternoon tea are served, and a well-stocked library with
a laptop for Internet service. Wireless net is available
through much of the ship. A glass elevator in the atrium
connects all decks.
The 53 staterooms and suites are divided into eight different
price categories, ranging from the well-appointed “D”
class staterooms to the lavish French Balcony Suites with
their queen beds, lounge area and floor-to-ceiling picture
windows. All rooms feature ocean views, flat-screen TVs,
mini-fridges, Escada bathroom amenities, ample storage space
and a personal safe.
The Frills
Orion’s biggest trump card is food, with a delectable
menu created by chef Serge Dansereau of the celebrated Bathers’
Pavilion restaurant in Sydney. By no stretch of the imagination
is this ordinary galley fare – meals reflect the fresh
ingredients so readily available Down Under and the eclectic
culinary traditions of the lands through which the ship
passes. Among Dansereau’s signature dishes are goat
cheese cappelletti with anchovy burnt butter, rainbow trout
with fennel and capers and roast venison loin with potato-gratin
onion marmalade.
Wash it all down with a superb selection of Aussie and New
Zealand wines. And then work it off the following morning
at the ship’s Vega Health Spa. In addition to a wide
variety of massage and spa treatments normally only available
on dry land, the spa features a sauna and gymnasium with
cardiovascular equipment.
The Cruise
“Dragons, Dili and Dreamtime” is a marvelous
multicultural cruise that Orion will offer this July and
August. Starting from Darwin on Australia’s wild and
remote Top End, the ship sails due north across the Indian
Ocean to the eastern end of the Indonesia archipelago.
Zodiacs carry guests to a beach landing on fabled Komodo
Island, where the world’s largest (and most deadly)
lizards roam the dry tropical forest. Orion then heads for
the pristine coral reefs around Flores Island, set against
a backdrop of primeval volcanoes. The ship also puts into
Dili, capital of East Timor, one of the globe’s newest
nations and a place of bygone Portuguese colonial charm.
Heading back to Australia, the tone of the voyage changes
dramatically once again as Orion cruises along the coast
of Arnhemland, one of Down Under’s most remote corners.
Shore excursions include a visit to the stunning Aboriginal
rock paintings at Mt. Borradaile, helicopter flights over
Kakadu National Park and barramundi fishing in estuaries
where giant saltwater crocodiles dwell. From AU $6,860 per
person.
Top
photos: The Eclipse’s year-round itinerary includes
amazing views and a circuit of the wildlife-rich Galapagos
Islands, off the Pacific Coast of South America. Below:
the 210-foot Eclipse at sea.
Eclipse
The lavish 48-passenger Eclipse is the smallest ship in our
survey. It’s also the only boat that sticks to one itinerary
year-round – a circuit of the wildlife-rich Galapagos
Islands off the Pacific coast of South America. Eclipse has
been chartered by the likes of Holland’s Queen Beatrice
and crooner Enrique Iglesias for private cruises around the
islands. It’s also the most kid-friendly of the new
breed of small luxury ships, with special family cruises offered
over summer vacation and the winter holiday season.
The Ship
Relaunched in 2003 after a comprehensive luxury refit, the
210-foot Eclipse can reach a top speed of 14.5 knots, although
given its casual passage around the archipelago, “full
speed ahead” is rarely needed. Meals are enjoyed in
a spacious dining room, or al fresco on the back deck around
the 20-foot plunge pool. A lounge at the front of the boat
does triple duty as a cocktail bar, lecture hall and craft
hall for the younger guests. The upstairs lounge functions
as a library, video room and “teen club” during
the family cruises.
The 27 cabins are spread across two decks connected by stairs.
Unlike most cruise ships, there are actually two single cabins
for those who like to travel alone or have an extra family
member along. The four 207-square-foot suites on the boat
deck are top of the line. Regardless of size, the rooms are
decorated in rich seikewood paneling, and they all have queen
or twin beds, private bathrooms, writing desks and ample storage
space.
The Frills
Eclipse prides itself on personalized – graciously warm
– South American service, whether in the dining room,
on the bridge or during the shore excursions.
Guests are broken down into groups of no more than 12 for
the twice-daily shore excursions, which means you basically
have your own private naturalist guide for beach forays, nature
walks, whale-watching sorties and snorkel trips. These same
guides join you for meals and give animated (and often hilarious)
lectures in the main lounge each night. By the end of the
voyage you truly feel like they are part of your family.
One of the unexpected pleasures of the Eclipse cruise is live
Latin American music and dancing on at least two nights during
the trip, courtesy of a Galapagos-based folk troupe that comes
aboard and an Andean-flavored crew band that’s as good
as anything you’ll see in the peñas of Ecuador
and Peru.
The Cruise
After a two-hour flight from mainland Ecuador, guests board
Eclipse in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island at the start
of their weeklong journey. You’ve barely got time to
settle in before your first close encounter of the animal
kind. Every day brings a new island and a slightly different
wildlife adventure – a chance to snorkel to penguins
and sharks at Bartolomé, hiking amongst the marine
iguanas of Fernandina, searching for giant tortoises in the
lush forest of the Santa Cruz highlands, the blue-footed boobies
and albatross of Española.
Another highlight is a visit to the Darwin Research Station,
where scientists and researchers study the extraordinary Galapagos
ecosystem. There’s also a day set aside for visiting
the crafts and jewelry areas, art galleries and clothing boutiques
of Puerto Ayora, the archipelago’s budding metropolis.
From $4,530 per person, for the 11-day “Wonders of the
Galapagos.”
Abercrombie & Kent
800.554.7016; www.abercrombiekent.com
From
sailboats and kayak expeditions to luxury cruise ships, California-based
Joe Yogerst has weathered more than a hundred oceangoing journeys over
the past two decades.
Photo
credit
Courtesy of Seabourn Cruise Line; Courtesy of CruiseWest;
Courtesy of Seadream Yacht Club; Courtesy of Orion Expedition
Cruises; Courtesy of Abercrombie & Kent