Wacker Drive at dusk.

Chicago has long been a city of grandeur. Historically, it was host to the World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893, an unprecedented meeting of economic, engineering and artistic minds. Today, the city’s tendency to impress shines through in its architecture. Within blocks, the building landscape gracefully shifts from Gothic to Modern to Prairie styles, with views of the steel-framed Sears Tower, the tallest building in North America at 110 stories, giving way to looks at the jewel box-like Chicago Cultural Center, its ballroom anchored by a pretty, Tiffany-glass dome.

Leveraging Chicago’s appeal – and drawing more than 33 million visitors annually – are its pristine location on the shores of Lake Michigan and wealth of internationally acclaimed restaurants, shops and hotels. These days, cultural offerings take precedence, due in great part to Silk Road Chicago, a yearlong celebratory initiative glossing the city with theater, cuisine, dance and music inspired by the art and culture that thrived along the storied, early-Eurasian travel route. Cellist Yo-Yo Ma pioneered the endeavor, which continues through Spring 2007. In its honor, the Chicago Symphony Orchestra (CSO) and Symphony Center host more than 50 Silk Road-themed events, the first being an Opening Night Gala, at which Ma performs with the CSO, conductor Miguel Harth-Bedoya and soprano Cyndia Sieden, before the party moves to Millennium Park for dinner and dancing, on September 30.


Above: an aerial view of Millennium Park.

	CounterPart2 is on the fall program of Hubbard Street Dance.
	The Steppenwolf Theatre will present Sonia Flew.
	A signature dish from Alinea.
	The Charlie Trotter’s much-sought-after kitchen table is literally in the heart of the action.
	The Peninsula Spa Pool.
	Bodhisattva Schist, from Pakistan (ancient Gandhara), 2nd-3rd century, The James W. and Marilynn Alsdorf Collection. On view at the Art Institute of Chicago.
	Stacy Keach will appear in the title role of the Goodman Theatre’s production of King Lear.
	Deborah Voigt will appear in the title role of the Lyric Opera of Chicago’s production of Salomé.
	Yo-Yo Ma will perform at the opening-night performance of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra.
	A Twike, a new electric vehicle, on view at the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago.
	CHICAGO ADDRESS BOOK LODGING The Four Seasons Chicago, 120 East Delaware Place; 312.280.8800 The Peninsula Chicago, 108 East Superior Street; 312.337.2888 DINING Alinea, 1723 North Halsted Street; 312.867.0110 Blackbird, 619 West Randolph Street; 312.715.0708 Charlie Trotter’s, 816 West Armitage; 773.248.6228 De La Costa, 465 East Illinois Street; 312.321.8930 Frontera Grill/Topolobampo, 445 North Clark Street; 312.661.1434 Spiaggia, 980 North Michigan Avenue; 312.280.2750 Stone Lotus, 873 North Orleans Street; 312.440.9680 SHOPPING Andrew Bae Gallery, 300 West Superior Street; 312.335.8601 Kate Spade, 101 East Oak Street; 312.654.8853 Lester Lampert, 57 East Oak Street; 312.944.6888 Marilyn Miglin Institute, 112 East Oak Street; 312.943.1120 Prada, 30 East Oak Street; 312.951.1113 Tod’s, 121 East Oak Street; 312.943.0070 Ultimo, 114 East Oak Street; 312.787.1171 Zygman Voss Gallery, 222 West Superior Street; 312.787.3300 NIGHTLIFE Jazz Showcase, 59 East Grand Avenue; 773.878.5552 The Green Mill, 4802 North Broadway Avenue; 773.878.5552

Cloud Gate.


Jay Pritzker Pavilion during a performance by the Chicago Symphony Orchestra.


The Crown Fountain.

The Art Institute of Chicago, known for the iconic stone statues of lions flanking the stairs outside, kicks off its homage to Silk Road Chicago on September 30 with Indian-dance choreography by Natya Dance Theatre, performances by the Chicago Children’s Choir and guided walks through its galleries, in which Tang Dynasty-era sculptures rest in the company of Dutch oil paintings. Another option is Snap: The First Photography Benefit Gala, held on September 15, with expected guests including revered photographers Tina Barney and Philip-Lorca diCorcia. These events are poised to tide art devotees over until the much-anticipated Spring 2009 opening of the Renzo Piano-designed Modern Wing of the Art Institute of Chicago, a 260,000-square-foot labyrinth of modern art-focused galleries holding Grant Wood’s American Gothic, Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks and more.

For those interested in contemporary art and design, the Museum of Contemporary Art, in the heart of downtown Chicago’s Magnificent Mile, presents Massive Change: The Future of Global Design from September 16 - December 31. Conceived by renowned designer Bruce Mau, the exhibition is engaging and critical, immersing visitors in a series of powerful encounters with the latest design innovations.

Art lovers also comb the River North Gallery District, located within the three-block radius of Franklin and Superior streets, found just west of North Michigan Avenue. Of the many highlights, Andrew Bae Gallery showcases large-scale paintings by up-and-coming Asian artists, and Zygman Voss Gallery displays a trove of early Salvador Dali etchings. Galleries from across the globe can be explored in one place at The Thirteenth Annual International Exposition of Sculpture Objects & Functional Art: SOFA Chicago 2006, held from November 10 - 12 on Navy Pier. Ninety-plus galleries and art dealers sell their holdings, including Czech art glass from Prague’s Galerie Meridian and contemporary Scandinavian sculpture from Denmark’s Galleri Udengaard.

Roughly one mile west of Navy Pier, the Civic Opera House, the longtime venue of the Lyric Opera of Chicago, is as opulent as the performances therein. The limestone, throne-shaped building – its grand foyer set off by glittering Austrian-crystal chandeliers – hosts an Opening Night Gala performance of Giacomo Puccini’s final opera, Turandot, starring Andrea Gruber in the title role, on September 16. Afterward, designer-gown-and-tuxedo-clad guests make their way to the Chicago Hilton and Towers for dinner and dancing. Turandot continues performances throughout the fall, as does Richard Strauss’s Salomé, starring the incomparable Deborah Voigt in the title role. The company will also perform a new production of Gluck’s Iphigenie en Tauride, starring Susan Graham, on September 29, with performances throughout October.

It’s a monumental year for other venerated cultural institutions, namely The Joffrey Ballet, now celebrating its 50th anniversary. The Joffrey’s season launches with the first-ever American production of Sir Frederick Ashton’s Cinderella, presented from October 4 - 15 at the Auditorium Theatre of Roosevelt University. Synchronically, The Goodman Theatre fetes the 20th anniversary of its Tony Award-winning artistic director, Robert Falls, who directs Shakespeare’s King Lear from September 9 - October 15. Falls is honored at a Goodman Theatre dinner benefit at The Four Seasons Chicago on October 6.

Hubbard Street Dance Chicago (HSDC) presents its Fall Series: Global Tapestry from September 27 - October 1. The program includes a world premiere by renowned Japanese artist Toru Shimazaki, featuring a fusion of martial art forms with the contemporary rhythms of French composer René Aubry. All performances take place at The Harris Theater for Music and Dance at Millennium Park.

Television and movie stars frequently take The Goodman’s stage, as well as that of the Steppenwolf Theatre Company. In 1976 Terry Kinney, Jeff Perry and Gary Sinise founded the Steppenwolf, whose members now include Joan Allen and John Malkovich. The company begins its 31st season on September 14 with Martin McDonagh’s The Pillowman, a dark comedy about a writer’s gruesome short stories that, intriguingly, parallel real-life crimes, and will also present Sonia Flew.

In a city with more than 20 miles of manicured lakeside parkland, it’s natural that activity frequently shifts outdoors. To wit: the Guild of the Chicago Botanic Garden’s Harvest Ball, which heralds the blaze of late-summer colors on the Garden’s hundreds of lush acres, on September 16. The black-tie garden party begins with a cocktail reception on the terrace and heats up as dinner by Charlie Trotter’s is served.

Speaking of parks: One of the most popular destinations in the city is 24.5-acre Millennium Park, which features the work of celebrated architects, planners, artists and designers. In addition to the interactive Crown Fountain by Spanish sculptor Jaume Plensa and the Frank Gehry-designed Jay Pritzker Pavilion – the most sophisticated outdoor concert venue of its kind in the country – the park’s many other attractions include ice skating, al fresco dining, performances at The Harris Theater for Music and Dance, and free classical music presentations by the Grant Park Orchestra and Chorus.

Another thing about Chicago? It takes shopping seriously. While North Michigan Avenue is the Midwest equivalent of the Champs Elysées in terms of boasting behemoth department stores and luxury chains, the brand-conscious prefer Oak Street, at the northern tip of the Avenue, home to Prada, Kate Spade and Tod’s. However, the most interesting tenants are the Chicago originals: Lester Lampert, where custom-designed jewels are crafted onsite; Marilyn Miglin Institute, a skincare and cosmetics boutique where bottles of $500 Pheromone perfume fly out the door; Ultimo, which features the best selection of Manolo Blahniks in the city. Fall’s undisputed fashion highlight is Macy’s Glamorama, which raises funds for The Art Institute of Chicago while showing off hot looks in a runway show at The Chicago Theatre. This year’s event on September 29 features performances by Beyoncé Knowles and looks from her and mom Tina Knowles’s clothing line, House of Deréon.

The city’s top-rated hotels have become destinations in and of themselves. At the Four Seasons Chicago, the spa does decadent body treatments, such as the Egyptian Golden Body Wrap, which uses Dead Sea salts and mud to purify the skin. This treatment is a creative tie-in with The Field Museum’s blockbuster exhibition, Tutankhamun and the Golden Age of the Pharaohs, on through January 1. At the hotel’s Seasons Lounge, Turkish models drift by wearing fashions of ancient and modern Turkey, while guests sip Turkish teas and coffee and nibble finger foods during Fashion Tea, held on September 12 and 16. Similarly, The Peninsula Chicago shows its appreciation for far-flung locales with its ongoing dining series, Culinary Journeys, featuring cuisine favored along the Silk Road and happening select days from September 5 - 28. The Peninsula’s top-floor swimming pool, from which views of downtown are gleaned through floor-to-ceiling windows, is alone worth the trip; hotel and spa guests have access.

Chicagoans are creatures of the night, so it’s no surprise that jazz clubs – where pianists and saxophone players improvise into the wee hours – do big business. Of the many choices, Jazz Showcase is preferred for its nonsmoking atmosphere and convenient downtown location; however, The Green Mill, the storied ex-Al Capone hangout, wins hearts of jazz purists who enjoy Kurt Elling’s crooning and stiff Manhattans.

Incidentally, it’s possible to while away an entire evening at one of the downtown’s new restaurants and lounges – known for late hours and high energy levels. De La Costa, the latest hit from the celebrity chef Douglas Rodriguez, opened in August in a 12,000-square-foot space within the River East Arts Center. Its Nuevo Latino menu features a custom ceviche bar at which chefs prepare the delicacy to diners’ likings. Another new spot, Stone Lotus, is billed as a “liquor spa” due to its Zenlike décor, which includes a 55-foot-long wall from which water cascades and a beautiful cherry blossom tree replica. Menu items are called “treatments,” meaning bottles of top-shelf vodkas and rums are paired with complimentary courses of Jamaican-spiced organic lamb chops and more, courtesy of chef Dale Levitski.

Chicago’s restaurant prowess has been apparent for years. Charlie Trotter built an empire at his namesake, French-inspired restaurant, where diners make reservations months in advance in order to secure the table in the kitchen at a cost of $200 per person. Equally impressive are Rick Bayless’s Frontera Grill/Topolobampo – a casual Mexican spot with a decidedly uncantinalike air, and a sleek, fine-dining enclave featuring menu items inspired by staff trips to Mexico City, respectively. For Italian cuisine, Tony Mantuano’s four-star-rated Spiaggia, hovering at the north end of the Mag Mile, lures with its selection of handmade pastas and wood-roasted game. For the food world’s next big thing, Blackbird and Alinea restaurants are not to be missed. Blackbird’s chef, Paul Kahan, puts organic and sustainable ingredients to creative use, being known to serve dishes like Jamison Farm lamb T-bones plated with goat’s milk yogurt. And chef Grant Achatz’s eclectic American spot, Alinea, continually wows with its Tour Menu, a $175, 24-course tastings menu that often takes five hours to experience.

The fall bounty of Chicago spans things culinary and cultural, and – as to be expected from a city where skyscrapers stand in harmonious company of a sprawling, sparkling lake – the options are never short of magnificent.