With weather generally too severe to support the growth of premium grapes, but perfect to sustain a wide variety of apples, the southern Normandy district of Calvados has been producing a fermented apple beverage since the days of Charlemagne. During the middle ages, apples distilled at monasteries in the area were thought to have medicinal benefit, and in the 16th century the process was refined to yield a highly concentrated spirit popular with local farmers. But formal strict regulation of production (appellation d’origine contrôlée) only started in 1942. And just in the past few decades has Calvados achieved recognition as an aperitif that rivals cognac and Armagnac in aesthetics.

While excellent bottles now hail from a number of producers, the best come from the Pays d’Auge district that surrounds the towns of Cambremer and Lisieux in the Touques River basin. As in other areas of Calvados, apples selected include a combination of varieties classified into four broad categories: sweet, bittersweet, bitter and acidic. In fact, more than 100 varieties may be included, with the goal to yield a balanced, yet multi-flavored cider. However, a Pays d’Auge designation requires a minimum of six weeks for fermentation, two distillations in small copper pots (rather than single column distillation in other areas), followed by at least two years of aging in small oak barrels – the purpose of the process being to impart greater complexity to the finished blend.

Calvados receiving only two to three years of barrel aging is generally quite fiery and shows a bouquet and taste of fresh apples and spice. But for their premium labels, top producers (such as Boulard, Domaine Dupont, Christian Drouin and Huet) allow the fermented cider to sit for many months before beginning distillation, and then age the distilled product in small casks for decades. This longer aging allows the tannins in the cider to mellow and draw new flavors into the product from the wood. At its best, well-aged Calvados has a bouquet and taste of fresh and dried apples with hints of apricots, oranges, caramel and chocolate.

As with cognac, once bottled the product does not improve with age. Also like cognac, serving should be at room temperature in snifter-shaped glasses.